To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and w Barbarian Days - William Finnegan od authora William Finnegan a nakladatelství za skvělé ceny na e-shopu Martinus. cz.
Autor |
William Finnegan |
Jazyk |
anglický |
Počet stran |
499 |
Rok vydání |
2016 |
Typ |
filmy |
Nakladatelství |
Corsair |